What’s Repiping Exactly?

If you’re a bit confused about “repiping” it could be because the term can refer to a range of services.

• Replacing in-wall and under-floor plumbing for a single kitchen or bathroom fixture.  This is usually economical only if the pipes are exposed in a crawlspace or basement.
• A partial replacement, limited to easily accessible pipes.  Or perhaps only one or two runs that are in poor condition.  It’s a limited-budget solution, appropriate only after a video inspection has verified the condition of other plumbing.
• Whole-house repiping is just that — the entire building.

But in all cases, it involves removing old pipes and installing new ones.  The replacement may be the same type of material, but considering the disruption and labor involved it’s typically worthwhile to upgrade to higher-quality piping for a longer trouble-free lifetime.

When Is It Necessary?

For newer structures, the issue is usually a specific problem.  In older buildings, the age and general condition of the plumbing are usually the deciding issues.  Here are some of the factors we consider.

• Polybutylene pipes (typically blue or gray, but sometimes black) should be replaced.  Used from the 1970s to mid-90s, it’s prone to leak, split, and burst.  So plumbing codes no longer allow its use.  Worst still, this type of plastic is damaged from the inside (primarily due to chlorine), so it may look just fine from the outside.  At the very least, have it carefully inspected.
• Galvanized pipe is generally long-lasting, but is especially vulnerable to corrosion and is no longer used.  It should be replaced at the first sign of leaks.
• Slab leaks are under flooring and several inches of concrete.  Spot repairs are sometimes economical, but it’s often better to repipe the line along an alternate route.
• Leaking sewer lines made of clay, cast iron, or Orangeburg pipe should usually be replaced.
• An inspection that reveals corrosion or that unsuitable material was used.
• The heavy scale build-up has reduced flow.  Without a water softener, this can become significant in as little as 10 years in the Phoenix area.
• Rusty-colored or metallic-tasting water indicates corrosion in the pipes or hot water heater.

Kitchen & bathroom remodels that significantly change the location of fixtures will also need a residential repipe.

It’s Not as Bad as You Think

Even total repipe projects typically don’t involve as much damage to walls and floors as most people think.  Wherever possible we open up only small areas of walls under sinks and behind toilets and appliances.  To avoid disturbing flooring we can re-route through attics or crawl spaces.  And if you choose flexible PEX plumbing we can snake it along existing runs with even fewer and smaller openings.

YOUR PIPE CHOICES

The main choice is between metal that is hard to install but more durable and various types of plastic that are less expensive.  All permitted plastics have been thoroughly and extensively tested to have no adverse health effects.  For hot and cold water lines, the main choices are copper and PEX.

• New copper pipes are the “gold standard” for water quality and long service life.  But they’re expensive, and not for underground or within-slab use (sometimes developing pinhole leaks.)
• PEX — cross-linked polyethylene — is roughly 1/3 the cost of copper.  It’s flexible, making it easy to install and freeze resistant.  Its use results in far fewer joints and it simply doesn’t corrode.  Lifetimes for premium products can be over 50 years if not exposed to direct sunlight.  Also, in comparison to copper repiping, there’s reduced water noise and it’s 100% lead-free.

OTHER TYPES

• ABS (a mixture of different plastics) has been approved for drain, sewer, and vent lines since the mid-1970s.
• CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) is a long-lasting plastic approved in most areas for hot and cold water lines.
• HDPE (high-density polyethylene) is approved for use in many locations.
• PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is also long lasting, but with hot water, it’s vulnerable to cracking and releases toxins.  It should never be used for drinking water lines but is sometimes chosen for drains and irrigation systems.